Monday, July 05, 2010

Christian Lacroix

Today I passed by 1 multi label boutique. To my surprise, I saw on their sales rack Christian Lacroix clothes. He is actually one of my favourite designers and one of the few remaining ones who did haute couture. When he had his exhibition last year in the national museum, I actually went thrice! He also designed for theatre productions. He did costumes with very cheap materials due to theater budget but the treatment of the fabric was over the top. He showed great talent in the details and mastery of fabrics which is the true mark of an exceptional designer.

But sadly, he was announced bankrupt last year. And many will think why did such a talented designer which sold clothes at such expensive prices go bankrupt. The newspaper even reported that he has not turned a single profit in his years of operation. Actually being in the fashion field now, I think it is not impossible. Haute couture is extremely expensive to maintain and yet few people are willing to pay for it. And to survive in fashion, you need to control costs. To do haute couture, you need a dedicated team of sample makers, tailors, embroiderers and beaders who sew for the sake of creating exquisite clothes not how much clothes to churn out per hour like in a factory. And yet in this world of mass fashion and speed consumption, few will appreciate this.

When I designed and created 8 gowns for the ETERNITY by Fuchsia Lane showcase, I took over a year. After the sketches, we did mock ups in toile fabric. Then I had to work with the artist we collaborate with to create artwork to match the gowns. Countless midnight oil were burnt. And many times, we had to create and destroy a few samples to get it right. And finally when we got the sample and artwork right. I spent 4 months looking in Singapore, Malacca, KL and Penang for the Peranakan embroiderers and beaders. They are a dying trade and nearly no one wanted to do it. I went to interview these embroiderers and beaders and waited for them to make samples for me.

After I finally got the creme de la creme artisans, they took 3 months to create the artwork on my gowns bead by bead or thread by thread. With such handiwork, it is impossible to be fast. So you can imagine the amount of manhours on it. After that, we have to sew everything together. For instance for the Goldfish In Love Gown, I had to sew 250 over Swarovski pearls. It was tedious work. After that, we have to invest in a good photographer and do test shoot for countless models to create the right look. By then, we have used alot of labour, time, materials and money.

The Goldfish In Love gown was auctioned off for $6888 by a husband who bought it for his wife. I dedicate 30% to Business Times Budding Artist Fund who believes no child with strong interest and artistic potential should be deprived of the opportunity to develop his or her talents because of his or her family's financial background. But if you think about the effort, you will understand what you are paying for. Of course, I am nowhere near the design maestro but the brand philosophy is the same.

Over 10 beaded samples are created to perfect the 1 beaded button on the gown

The smallest Japanese beads with sheen are used and sewn on bead by bead.

Over 250 Swarovski pearls were sewn onto the Goldfish In Love Gown.

Beautifully taken shots of Goldfish In Love and Whimsical Swallows. Both are auctioned off during the ETERNITY showcase

Goldfish In Love Gown was auctioned off for $6888 by a loving husband who bought it for his wife as a surprise. And 30% goes to BT Budding Artist Fund.

I hope haute couture can survive. And whether it can survive, depends whether people can appreciate and pay for the dedication to creating it.